Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Feb 12, 2018

DIY: Rocket launcher for paper/water rockets




After watching the SpaceX launch with my kids, I was inspired to build a rocket launcher to continue their excitement for the sciences. The rocket launcher can launch paper rockets and water bottle rockets.

The rocket launcher is powered by a bike pump and activated via a flip switch. I modified the design from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNFfK5uo6D0 by integrating the base into the pressure chamber and using a bike tube Schrader valve. The rocket launcher is built from PVC pipe with 1 1/2" main chamber and 3/4" legs and launch tube. The valve is a 24V sprinkler valve powered by 2 9V batteries connected in series and actuated via a flip switch. The system can be pumped up to 140 PSI, and the rockets can be built from card stock and tape.


Build complete

Tools used:

Vise
Wire stripper
Wire crimper
PVC pipe cutter
Drill
Drill bits
Scissors

Materials:

PVC primer
PVC glue
Wire
Flip Switch
2 9V batteries
2 9V battery connectors
Teflon tape
Electrical spade connectors (use whichever wire connectors you're comfortable with)
1 coffee can to mount the switch
1 used bike tube for the Schrader valve
3 | 3/4" pipe end caps (the photo shows 2 3/4 inner diameter end caps which was wrong)
5' | 3/4" PVC pipe
3 | 3/4" x 1 1/2" T PVC adapter
1 1/2" T PVC3/4" T adapter
2 | 1" x 3/4" threaded PVC pipe adapter (this was used for a 1" threaded sprinkler valve)
24V 1" sprinkler valve
3/4" washer




Cut out the bike tubing with scissors around the Schrader valve (or purchase a Schrader valve if you don't have a used tube). Ensure you leave enough rubber material to make a good seal within the 3/4" end cap. Insert the end cap into a vice. Drill out the 3/4" end cap with a drill bit slightly larger than the Schrader valve.



Insert the Schrader valve, then insert the washer. For all PVC connections, prime (purple can) each mating surface. Then add glue (clear can) to each mating surface and immediately press fit. Cut a 6" length of 3/4" PVC pipe using the PVC pipe cutter, and then glue into the 3/4" x 1 1/2" PVC adapter. Glue the 3/4" x 1 1/2" PVC adapter to the 1 1/2" T PVC.



Glue the end cap onto the 3/4" pipe.



The inserted washer keeps the valve in place when inserting the bike pump,



Use PVC pipe cutter to cut the sections to length and glue. Next, we'll glue the remaining 2 of the 3/4" x 1 1/2" PVC adapter to the 1 1/2" T fitting. (The one going vertical and the one extending to the rear of the base) To make the base, cut 2 pieces of 4" section of 3/4" pipe and glue to the 3/4" x 1 1/2" PVC adapter going vertical and to the rear. Connect and glue the 3/4" T adapter and glue 3/4" pipe to each side. Glue the 3/4" caps at the end of the 3/4" T. Add teflon tape to the threads of the 1" x 3/4" threaded PVC pipe adapter. This is the adapter that connects the 3/4" PVC to the 1" Sprinkler Valve. This will keep the system sealed.



Connect the batteries in series. Insert the connector leads to the top of the batteries and press down on the connector. A momentary switch would function better since you wouldn't have to turn the system on and off every time with the flip switch--the flip switch feels legit though.



Wire connectors crimped to the ends of the wire using a wire electrical wire crimp tool.



The battery leads are pressed underneath the connectors, so no need for soldering. All electrical connections are now connected via the wiring diagram. Spade and corresponding female connectors were used.



Paper rocket built from rolled up card stock, tape, and a McDonalds french fry holder. Roll up paper on some scrap 3/4" PVC. Tape the entire length of the rocket. Seal the top of the paper with tape. The air will launch the rocket, so the top of the rocket needs to be sealed. Tape a nose cone, and tape the fins. Insert paper rocket on top of the 3/4" launch tube.



10...9...8...7...6...5...4...3...2...1...Blast off!

Jun 19, 2012

XBMC & VDPAU Ubuntu 12.04 LTS 64bit w/HDMI Sound [HTPC]



XBMC Ubuntu 12.04 HTPC Tutorial

My Setup:
Zotac ION N330 w/integrated Nvidia ION Desktop GPU
Ubuntu 12.04 64-bit
Nvidia 295.49 Driver (302.17 removed overscan and broke sound)
HDMI Sound and Digital Passthrough for Dolby Digital and DTS
BIOS Southbridge - Internal Codec only
Nvidia HDMI to HDMI DD/DTC receiver - from HDMI DD/DTC receiver to HDMI TV (From the PC, a HDMI cable goes to HDMI receiver input | Another HDMI cable connects to the HDMI receiver output and goes to the HDMI input on the TV)

Instructions:

1. Install Ubuntu 12.04 LTS, during setup, choose autologin, and update software with an internet connection

2. Download System Software Updates once the system reboots

3. Get the latest Nvidia driver
4. Reboot

5. Upon Rebooting go into the BIOS.
In your BIOS, go to Southbridge configuration and change the video RAM from 256MB to 512MB (THIS IS OPTIONAL, MY SYSTEM PLAYS BACK BLURAY WITH 256MB SELECTED). Inside the Southbridge config, change Audio codec to Internal only--this will limit sound to HDMI only, so analog sound will no longer display in Ubuntu. Internal+External will enable both HDMI and analog.

6. Install XBMC--super easy tutorial thanks to Noobslab
Install XBMC on Ubuntu 12.04 Precise Pangolin

7. Unmute HDMI/spdif

First, check to see if sound is enabled and unmuted. SPDIF should be unmuted as well:


"Code:
alsasmixer
Press <F6> to select the correct soundcard.
Press <F3> to show playback levels. <F4> selects capture levels [or use <Tab>]
Use the left/right arrow keys to select and up/down arrow keys to change levels. <M> to mute/unmute.
Go to "System ->Preferences ->Sound" and make sure the correct soundcard is default and adjust your profile on the hardware tab. 
On the output tab choose the correct device."

8. Enabling HDMI sound in XBMC

Getting Sound over HDMI was a challenge for me. This was due to my own error in modifying the sound configuration files, which I did for my previous installations. Originally, I assumed I had to modify /etc/pulse/default.pa and .asound, in the home folder, but in the end, those steps broke sound over HDMI. I had to go back and delete all modifications to get DD/DTS sound over HDMI in XBMC.

With the newer Ubuntu 12.04, XBMC, Nvidia, and Ubuntu work well with one another. HDMI system sounds should work out of the box with some minor setting changes.
  • Select HDMI in Audio Output
  • Under Audio Output Device, select Defaults (ALSA)
  • For passthrough sound to your receiver, select Defaults (PulseAudio)

8.5 Change sound outputs in Ubuntu


9. Install Xubuntu and fix video tearing

10. Enable VDPAU accelerated HD flash for browsing Youtube/Vimeo with Flashaid

11. Install Google Chrome http://www.google.com/chrome

Recap, now you should have video and system sounds over HDMI, XBMC DD/DTS passthrough over HDMI, HD VDPAU accelerated Adobe flash playback with sound, 

12. Now get some popcorn going, sit back, and enjoy your HTPC!

Troubleshooting links:

http://http.download.nvidia.com/XFree86/gpu-hdmi-audio-document/gpu-hdmi-audio.html#_verify_your_eld_is_valid
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1668737

Jan 4, 2012

[OUTDATED] Unlimited Free Text Messaging :: GV :: Boost Mobile iDEN


So by now, you're having a blast with your GPS tracker/free internet boost mobile phone. Well, we're going to kick it up a notch with free unlimited text messaging through Google Voice.

Here's how it works:
We're going to use the Boost Mobile iDEN Pay-As-You-Go phone network to access the internet--this is free and we do not need a data plan. Then we'll use Opera Mini Browser to visit http://voice.google.com. Once logged in, we're free to make and receive text messages through the browser.

The cost breakdown is $10 every 3 months for unlimited free text messaging/GPS tracking/free internet/tethering/emergency phone.

Dec 1, 2011

DIY GPS Handlebar Mount Tutorial

(image: Tri's DIY GPS handlebar mount on an Aprilia Tuono)

The goal of this post is to give you an idea on how to create your own GPS handlebar mount. The core build of this DIY GPS mount should be applicable to anything with handlebar like a motorcycle, bicycle, scooter or ATV. The size and shape of the DIY GPS mount will vary depending on your needs such as the size of your GPS and handlebars. Overall, I've used this GPS mount on two motorcycles with great results.

Materials to build 1 mount:
Aluminum Flat Bar at Home Depot
2 Halex 3/4 in. Steel Conduit and Pipe Hangers #26781, (in the electrical isle of HD)
Velcro
2 Hex bolts
2 Nuts
2 Washers
2 Locking washers
Plumber's Teflon Tape

Bill of Materials:
~$15

Tools:
Dremel or Hack Saw
Drill
Sanding block
Scissors
Dry erase marker

Tutorial:

1. Gather your build materials from Home Depot.



2. Choose a good mounting location and make note of how much space you have to work with. Will the GPS mount fit?

3. Cut your aluminum bar to the size of your GPS using either a Dremel or hacksaw, and sand the edges smooth


4. Place the conduit hanger holes side by side, and place them together onto the aluminum bar. Mark your drill holes with your Dry erase marker.

5. Drill out the two holes


6. Tighten and screw in the nuts and bolts with the washer and locking washer.


7. Optional. Drill out a pair of holes to attach some Velcro straps.

8. Mount the GPS holder to your handlebar by unscrewing the Speed Thread on the Conduit Hangers. 

9. Add some  plumber's Teflon thread tape to protect your handlebar from scratches. 

10. Pull the hangers apart and mount it to your handlebar. Put back the screw and tighten down.



11. Cut some velcro and add it to the front of the GPS holder and to the back of your GPS.



12. Mount your GPS to your new DIY GPS mount. Now start on your next adventure!




Nov 30, 2011

DIY Suzuki DRZ 400SM Windscreen Tutorial


Wind is a challenge especially when riding the DRZ at freeway speeds because without a front windscreen, riding on a windy day feels like someone turning on a leaf blower to your chest.

I had an extra windscreen from an Aprilia RSV Mille 01-03 laying around, and figured I'd adapt it to my DRZ for some wind protection. Using a few nuts and bolts, a Dremel, and a sanding block, I was able to create a functional and stylish windscreen for my DRZ 400SM.

Materials:
Masking tape
4 of each: nuts, bolts, washers, and locking washers
Dry erase marker

Bill of Materials:
$25

Tools:
Drill
Dremel
Sanding block
120 Grit sandpaper (very coarse)

Tutorial:
  • 1. Place your windscreen over the front DRZ cowl and mark the drill holes with a dry erase marker
  • 2. Drill out the holes
  • 3.  Secure the windscreen with nuts, bolts, washers, and locking washers
  • 4.  We're going to use the masking tape as a guide on where to cut, so using the edge and angle of the DRZ cowl as a line guide, we'll place the masking tape on the cowl and all the way to the end of our new windscreen.

  • 5. Do the same as step 4 on the other side




  • 6.  Use your Dremel and carefully cut while using the masking tape as your guide.




  • 7.  The edges will be rough with melted plastic from the heat of the Dremel. We'll snap this gunk off, then using our sanding block, sand down both sides of our new windscreen.



  • 8. Install the windscreen/front cowl to the DRZ. Now we can enjoy riding longer distances at freeway speeds.


Nov 28, 2011

Remove Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle :: How To

Yamaha 700 Raptor Muffler

Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle Removal
1. Remove bolt with an allen wrench Yamaha Raptor 700 Removal
2. Grab a torch and heat the outter ring of the baffle.
3. (Be careful of the heat) Then use a flathead screwdriver to kneed the baffle loose.
4. Use a pair of pliers to pull out the baffle.
Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle Removal
5. This is how the baffle looks removed. The torch is pointing to where you need to apply heat. As you can see, there's a bit of rust on the baffle, which is causing the seizure.

Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle Remove
Yamaha Raptor 700 Baffle Suzuki DRZ 400 SM Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust
I was attempting the Foot's Mod for my DRZ 400SM's Pro Circuit T4 exhaust. The exhaust is way too loud for my taste, and the Foot's Mod requires a Raptor 660 baffle to insert into a T4 exhaust. I could not source a 660 baffle, so I went ahead and tried the next best thing, the Raptor 700 baffle. Well, I can tell you now that the Raptor 700 baffle does not directly fit, so for those looking attempting the Foots Mod, try and source yourself a 660 baffle. The 700 baffle will require some modification to make it fit.

Jun 7, 2011

Tri's 2004 Aprilia Tuono Project




The ride home from the previous owner's home was fun. His place was up in the mountains. The warm weather was just perfect. You know, the kind of weather when the pine tree smell hits the air just right. Couldn't have asked for better riding conditions. 

The Tuono is a different beast compared to my old Honda CBR 600RR. I like both, but with the Tuono I felt torn between riding relaxed versus riding with an evil laugh.

Completed:
H7 Euro to H7 Japanese wiring
Headlight modulator
Tires
Tail LED
Delkavic exhaust
Coil covers
Replace front fairing
Brake/Clutch fluid
Buff headlight and windscreen
Mirrors
Turn signals front and rear
Weld up frame sliders
Repaint radiator side covers
Infamous brown connector
Carbon fiber the heel guards
Clean n lube chain
Oil Change
Coolant Change
Buff out exhaust

06-27-2011
Sanded & painted radiator covers
Cut and soldered the brown connector from the Rectifier. The enclosing plastic on one of the pins showed signs of melting. Ended up cutting the connector and soldering the wires together permanently.

 




06-29-2011
Today, I went ahead and created the mold for my carbon fiber heel guards.

Sealed the part with molding clay
Applied mold release wax to the part. Put several layers on and buffed.
Applied PVA. Waited for it to set up
Gel coated over the part
When the gel coat was tacky, I applied 3 layers of fiberglass chop mat to reinforce the mold
Once dry, I removed the part
Sanded and buffed using 1200, 1500, and 3M perfect it III

Tomorrow, carbon fiber goes in, and I'll create the mold for the other heal guard







06-30-2011
Today, I took my broken frame sliders to Leo's Muffler in SJ and had them welded up. A quick 5 minutes later, and I was good to go. They did a great job welding it up and reinforcing the parts.

Then I got home and parts arrived in the mail. Sweet.

Mirrors with Integrated LED turn signals
Rear LED turn signals
Oil filter
Kisan Modulator

My Tuono didn't have any turn signals, well, except one funky looking rear left signal. When I took apart the rear tail, there were a bunch of mismatched wires that did not match up to the Tuono's Wiring Diagram. I traced the wiring, and it turns out the PO installed an LED relay and rear wiring harness in addition to an aftermarket flasher. So, I took the rear LED relay and harness and put that aside and fabricated a new harness for all 4 signals.

I've heard some issues with Aprilia's electronics design, but I love the simplicity of it. The Tuono's signal wiring connectors are standard Molex connectors available at Fry's Electronics. I used some 18AWG wiring, heat shrink tubing, connector crimper, and wiring loom to create a new OEM equivalent harness. Soldered everything up, and all LED signals work great. I really like the shape and form of the mirrors and signals.









Complete as of 07-05-2011